Let's talk about a culinary revolution that's been simmering in the heart of America's Chinatowns. The quest for Chinese fine dining is on, and it's time to uncover why this cuisine deserves a seat at the chef's table.
Imagine being a child, proudly bringing your cultural cuisine to school, only to be met with confused stares and comments like, "Oh God, that's gross!" This was the experience of Taiwan-born chef George Chen, who immigrated to Los Angeles with his family in 1967. Fast forward to today, and Chen's braised pork and Chinese sauerkraut are now coveted dishes. His journey reflects a broader shift in perception, where Chinese food is finally shedding its cheap and fast-food stigma.
Chen, the ringmaster of China Live in San Francisco's oldest Chinatown, is on a mission. He oversees a culinary circus, from dumpling stations to Peking duck roasting, all with the hope of reviving his fine-dining restaurant, Eight Tables, upstairs. His ambition? To charge $88-$188 for a course-by-course dining experience, challenging the notion that Chinese food must be affordable.
But Chen isn't alone. There's a wave of Chinese-American chefs and restaurateurs elevating their cuisine. From San Francisco's Empress by Boon and Mister Jiu's to New York's Yingtao, these establishments are pushing the boundaries of what Chinese food can be. They're crafting refined tasting menus that go beyond the usual takeout fare, and they're doing it with style and creativity.
Here's where it gets controversial: In an industry where French haute cuisine and Japanese omakase command high prices without question, Chinese restaurateurs often face resistance when charging fine-dining prices. Why is it that Chinese food, with its rich history and intricate techniques, is not given the same respect?
Chef Chen puts it bluntly: "Why shouldn't I charge these prices? Just because we're in Chinatown? Or because people think Chinese food should be cheap? It's not true."
This sentiment is echoed by Bolun and Linette Yao, the husband-and-wife team behind Yingtao in New York's Hell's Kitchen. Their Michelin-starred restaurant offers a $150 chef's tasting menu, challenging the biases and boundaries that limit people's perceptions of Chinese cuisine.
"We want to build a bridge between traditional Chinese and the fine dining scene that New York people are familiar with," says Bolun Yao. And he's not alone in this mission. Emily Yuen, a James Beard Award semifinalist, is joining forces with Yao to elevate Chinese culture and cuisine. For Yuen, it's about representation, both in the kitchen and on the plate.
And this is the part most people miss: Chinese food has a complex history in the US, marked by both admiration and racism. From the desire for Chinese silks and ceramics in Europe to the segregation of Chinese railroad labourers, Chinese culture and cuisine have faced ups and downs in their reception.
Even today, Asian American restaurants battle tired stereotypes. As Krishnendu Ray, director of NYU's food studies PhD program, points out, the rise in prestige for an "ethnic" cuisine often correlates with its country of origin's economic power. Ray's research on Michelin's New York City guides shows a significant increase in mentions of Chinese regional cuisine, from 3% to 7%, between 2006 and 2024.
So, is it worth it to pay fine-dining prices for Chinese cuisine? That's a question for the audience. Some may argue that these restaurants are a welcome addition to Chinatown, offering a refined dining experience. Others may question the value, especially when compared to other cuisines that command similar prices.
One thing is clear: these chefs are not serving fusion. They're not blending Asian influences with Western cuisine. Instead, they're showcasing the best of Chinese cooking techniques, from the woks at Empress by Boon to the open kitchen at China Live. As Chen says, "You look at the greater culinary disciplines of China, and because you have the space, you can showcase the cuisine."
So, the next time you're in Chinatown, consider giving these fine-dining establishments a try. It's about more than just food; it's about celebrating and elevating a culture that has so much to offer.
